Is Khiva worth visiting?
The ancient city of Khiva, Uzbekistan, situated along the ancient Silk Roads not far from its sister cities of Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, has Central Asia’s largest remaining preserved walled city, Itchan Kala.
This sets it apart from other sites in this amazing country. In 1990, Itchan Kala was internationally recognised and added to the UNESCO World Heritage Listings.
The circumference of Itchan Kala’s walls is approximately 2200 meters, with a height of 7 to 8 meters and a foundation thickness of 5 to 6 meters. That’s massive. Still thinking if Khiva is worth visiting?
Khiva is divided into two distinct parts: the area within the inner walled, historical Itchan Kala, meaning ‘within the wall’ and the modern area outside the walled city called Dichon-Qala, meaning ‘outside the wall’.
The majority of Khiva’s population lives outside the walls.
If you’ve made it to Samarkand, then Khiva is the next natural stop following the ancient Silk Road route. Today, travel is a lot easier with trains and planes connecting Khiva regularly with other Uzbek cities.
We travelled by fast train from Samarkand, with the journey taking 5.5 hours. It’s certainly a relaxed, safe and inexpensive way to travel.
Based on our two-week travel through Uzbekistan, we want to show why the answer to whether Khiva is worth visiting is a resounding yes.
Having visited the other Uzbek historical cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Tashkent, Khiva offers an experience that can’t be compared to these other cities.
In this article, we share our must-visit attractions, practical tips and personal insights, ensuring your time and money is well spent in Khiva.
READ MORE: The Ultimate Uzbekistan Travel Tips and Guide
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Reasons to Visit Khiva in a Nutshell 🥜
The main reason to visit Khiva is to see the walled city of Ichan Kala, the largest in Central Asia, and its myriad number of historical buildings.
Walking the city walls near sunset, gazing at the majestic mosques and madrassahs while listening to the calls to prayer recreate centuries-old traditions that transport you back in time.
We’ve visited all these places and can recommend them to you and include detailed information and visitor tips further in this article.
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Map of Things to Do in Khiva
Getting to Khiva: the Stress-Free Way
The two easiest options to get to Khiva are by train and plane. A third option is using road transport, but this is not recommended in this article due to the state of the roads.
To Khiva by Train
Train From Samarkand
We used the train from Samarkand to Khiva on business class tickets on Uzbekistan Railways. The carriages were spotless, with seats providing plenty of legroom, and you could purchase food and drink on the train.
To book your own train tickets online, use the Uzbekistan Railways website, but be aware that tickets only start to go on sale 45 days prior to the departure date. Seats book out fast.
Alternatively, you can take a chance and try to purchase a ticket at the train station, but you’ll need to be in the country for this one.
Finally, if you prefer an agency to step in and do the whole purchase on your behalf (this is what we did as the Uzbekistan railway website was down), we can’t fault Advantour. They’re efficient and really easy to deal with.
The daily train timetable for Samarkand ➜ Urgench is below:
- Samarkand departure 01:07 a.m. with arrival time 10:55 a.m., or
- Samarkand departure 09:08 p.m. with arrival time 07:10 a.m.
Train From Tashkent
The daily train timetable for Samarkand ➜ Urgench is below:
- Tashkent departure 03:39 p.m. with arrival time 06:13 a.m., or
- Samarkand departure 09:00 p.m. with arrival time 10:10 a.m.
To Khiva/Urgench by Plane
Fly to Urgench
There is no airport at Khiva, with the closest being Urgench, located 40 kilometres from Khiva and is easily reached by taxi. Fly direct from Tashkent to Urgench in 1hr 30mins or from Samarkand to Urgench in 3.5 hours.
We use and recommend Skyscanner to find cheap flights
Itchan Kala: Entrance Ticket and Ticket Options
Most of the things to do in Khiva are in the old city, Itchan Kala. You will need a ticket to enter Itchan Kala for access to the historical attractions and museums.
There are three types of tickets for purchase depending on what things you’d like to see:
Economy ticket: 50,000 SOM per person (approx. USD$4.00) allows you to walk the city without museum entry.
Standard ticket: 100,000 SOM per person (we chose this option; approx. USD$8.00) allows you to walk the city and enter all museums/mosques.
Deluxe ticket:150,000 SOM (approx. USD$12.00) gives you entry to Itchan Kala, including all museums, mosques and three minarets.
The west gate of Itchan Kala is the main entrance, and it’s here you can buy the different types of tickets mentioned above for 24/7 access to this walled city. All tickets are valid for 48 hours.
Just note that the historical attractions inside Itchan Kala are open only between 8:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. This includes the minarets, mosques, and museums.
If you have questions, you can ask the people at the ticket office or the Tourist Police, whose job it is to assist tourists. Turnstiles were only in place at the western gate, but there are plans to install turnstiles and ticketing offices at the other three (north, south and east) gates.
Alternative Access into Itchan Kala
We did notice that locals used pedestrian access to and from Itchan Kala via a small walkway only 100m south and within eyesight of the western gate. Perplexed, we asked the Tourist Police if there were plans to install turnstiles across this entrance and were told no.
The police said this unpatrolled access would always remain open and free as locals working inside the walls needed to return home. Although you may enter the city from this point, you will not have access to any of the attractions without a ticket.
We chose to pay the entry fee at the western gate, knowing it would help support the local economy.
Itchan Kala – First Impressions
Itchan Kala, the walled old city, is the historical heart of Khiva. It’s a mix of modern-day museums and historical attractions, with markets dominating each of the streets.
During the day, finding a scene without some sort of market in view is challenging. However, we found that the way to see Khiva at its best was to arrive very early in the morning before the traders arrived to set up their stalls.
During these early, quiet hours, you’ll have the opportunity to see and feel the true essence of Khiva. You can nearly hear the city breathe. Another bonus is that you’ll dodge the bigger tour groups that wander en masse throughout the day.
If early mornings are not your thing, then wait until sundown. All but a few insistent traders hang about for the late sale, with the majority having called it quits by then.
We didn’t initially warm to Khiva. When we initiated a greeting to the local merchants, a hello and a smile, it often was not reciprocated. This was in contrast to the retailers in the other Uzbekistan cities we’d visited.
The local merchants inside Itchan Kala didn’t seem particularly happy.
We stopped by the local Tourist Information Centre and were told that many locals were under stress because of unmanageable loan repayments. The government had encouraged stallholders to take up small business loans and for locals to turn their homes into BnBs to cash in on an expected surge in tourism.
Unfortunately, this tourism boom did not eventuate, leaving stall owners with unwanted debt. On top, we saw many stalls in competition trying to sell the same type of traditional fur hats and colourful local Uzbek dolls.
We could really empathise with their stressful situation.
READ MORE: The Ultimate Uzbekistan Travel Tips and Guide
Top 11 Things to Do in Khiva
Our time in Khiva was spent exploring the old city, Itchan Kala, which is the main drawcard. I also used Khiva as a launch point, joining a day trip to the Aral Sea ship cemetery.
Each ancient Uzbek city we visited along the old Silk Road intrigued us. Each place was subtly different to the next. And now, having arrived at Khiva, we could begin to unlock her secrets.
Here are our recommendations for things to do and what to visit in Khiva.
1. Juma Mosque
Sometimes spelt as Djuma Mosque and also known as the Friday Mosque. Its 215 carved wooden black elm columns hold a flat roof above a rectangular prayer hall measuring 46m x 55m.
Although this mosque was built in the late 18th century, some of its pillars date back to the 10th century. A 33m high minaret joins the mosque and can be climbed.
Interestingly, the Juma Mosque has a series of small gardens within, giving the hall a calm and welcoming feel. We were fortunate to see two locals in traditional dress who kindly agreed to a photo.
2. Tash-Khovli Palace
The Tash-Khovli Palace, also called the Stone Palace, earned its nickname from the hard stone bricks that were used in its construction. Allah Kuli Khan, Khiva’s ruler from 1825-1840, commissioned the palace in 1831 and demanded it be built within two years. However, it took until 1838 to finally complete work on this palace.
The palace has more than 150 rooms off nine courtyards and is richly decorated with ceramic tiles, carved wood, stone and finely painted ceilings.
During our visit, we saw a yurt pitched on a circular platform in the internal eastern courtyards, which, in olden times, would have been the abode of a visiting clan leader (Turkmen, Uzbek or Kazakh) waiting for an audience or royal feast.
3. Kalta Minor Minaret
‘Minaret Kalta Minor’ translated means ‘short minaret’ and is one of the most iconic landmarks within Itchan Kala. Kalta Minor minaret is 29m high; however, this fell far short of its original planned height of 70-80m.
It is thought that construction may have stopped due to the death of Khiva’s ruler, Muhammad Amin Khan, who ruled between 1845 and 1855. Another theory is the tall minaret would have allowed a view from the top into the ruler’s harem, so caused construction to cease.
Enjoy it day and night, as it’s certainly one of Khiva’s beautiful historic structures. It certainly commands a presence as you walk towards it through the western gate.
4. Kuhna Ark
The Kuhna Ark was the residence and fortress of the khan. It is found inside the western gate and on your left as you enter. The residence houses the barracks, harem, mosque and jail.
Probably the highlight of our visit to Kuhna Ark is casting your eyes around the throne room, which has exquisite patterns and colours befitting a mighty khan.
5. Sunset Views From the City Walls
The best views over Itchan Kala are had when standing on the old earthen walls near Kunya Ark citadel, not far from the western gate. To reach this location on the walls, you’ll need to walk to the northern gate and look close to find a series of steps leading up to the top.
Once on top, walk the wall to the west and then south. Walk as far as you can until you reach a dead-end, placing you at the Kunya Ark Citadel.
It’s here you’ll have spectacular views overlooking this historic old city, with views of:
- Muhammad Rakhimkhan Madrassah
- Juma minaret
- Islam Hoja minaret.
Backtrack your steps to descend the wall. At the time of our visit, it was free to walk the walls, although we were told that there were plans to install turnstiles for paid access.
Evening walks of the old city walls are one of the best things to do in Khiva. The last of the orange sunset rays illuminate the minarets, mosques and madrasahs. Yes, it’s a sight you’d never grow tired of. It was definitely a highlight for us.
6. Rooftop Views at the Caravan Khiva Restaurant and Dinner
Caravan Khiva is a three-storey restaurant in Itchan Kala that offers fabulous views of the cityscape from its open-air top floor. It is located close to the southern gate. The owners are super-friendly.
Bring your camera and a jacket, as it can get pretty cold once the wind blows, especially during our visit in October. We can personally vouch for the fantastic mixed meat skewers here.
7. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum
This structure was completed in 1701 and is the only blue-domed building in Khiva. The mausoleum is a dedication to the 14th-century warrior and poet Makhmud Pahlavan, famous for his battlefield exploits.
Makhmud’s Persian poetry is scribed on the glazed tiles throughout the Pahlavan Mahmud complex.
It became a precedent of the ruling Khans from the mid-19th century to have their own funerary chambers forming annexes to the blue-domed building.
8. Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa
Construction on the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa was started in 1871 and completed in 1876. It is one of the largest madrasas in Central Asia. Each corner of the internal yard corners is dominated by a green-domed tower.
Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa is located opposite Kuhna Ark. This madrasa has a museum dedicated to Khan’s of Khiva and to Mohammed Rakhim Khan.
Back in 1873, Russia had conquered Khiva, making the Khan a vassal to the ruling Tsar. As the madrasa was under construction at that time, the Khan wisely chose to allow both traditional Islamic studies and non-religious studies such as mathematics, astronomy and geography.
Clever and unusual.
9. Old Graveyards
Some interesting old graveyards can be found in a few locations close by and inside Itchan Kala’s walls (see map for specific locations):
- A series of renovated graves are in the southwestern corner of Itchan Kala, right by the wall.
- Some renovated graves lie clustered at the back of the Pakhlavan Mahmud Complex.
If you look carefully, you may see old graves marked with flagged sticks. This symbolises good luck.
10. Museum of Madrassa’s History
There are quite a few museums to visit within Itchan Kala. A few have quite a limited number of exhibitions, but one of the more informative museums is the Museum of Madrassa’s History. This is located in the Sherghazikhan madrasa and opposite the Mausoleum of Pahlavon Mahmud.
There are old photos, artefacts and traditional dress wear with some good explanations of life in Uzbekistan. The museum is presented well.
11. Day Trip from Khiva to the Aral Sea Ship Cemetery
I chose a trip from Khiva to the Aral Sea Ship Cemetery using Islambek Travel. It was fantastic. We had quite a few stops along the way to visit other interesting attractions.
If you are already in Khiva, you can find Islambek Travel right by the Islambek Hotel in Itchan Kala.
READ MORE: Day Trip to Aral Sea Ship Graveyard from Khiva
Where to Eat In Khiva: Inside Itchan Kala
Caravan Khiva Restaurant, close to Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum, was the place we frequented. This establishment opens for lunch and dinner. There’s really tasty food with plenty of variety on the menu.
Where to Eat In Khiva: Outside Itchan Kala
Just outside the western gate is an authentic restaurant called Rustamboy –Choyzonasi. We asked one of the locals and was directed to this place.
It was popular with the locals and came with local prices. We enjoyed a tasty Uzbek Lagman soup consisting of vegetables, pasta and meat with bread.
Where to Stay in Khiva: Within Itchan Kala’s Walls
We booked into the Family Guest House – Khiva Azim Ota, which offered a traditional Uzbek breakfast. The establishment was ideally located within the old city walls and had reliable, fast Wi-Fi. You can find more deals on Khiva Accommodation below.
Click Here For Khiva Accommodation Deals
Khiva Tourist Tips
Credit Card Use and Exchanging Foreign Currency in Khiva
Credit Card Use
Many of the ATMs within Itchan Kala accept MasterCard only. Not much help if, like us, you only have Visa cards. After asking around, we were directed to an ATM machine accepting visa cards at the Hotel Asia Khiva, just outside the southern gate. However, when we checked, this machine was out of service.
Finally, we received the right advice. A 15-minute walk northwest of the northern gate to the NBU–Milliy Bank, the National Bank Of Uzbekistan. The bank is opposite the Hotel Bek Khiva.
Here, we could use our Visa card to withdraw cash and exchange foreign currency for local SOM (this location is marked on the map at the start of this article).
2) Exchanging Foreign Currency and Cash Withdrawal inside Itchan Kala
If you need to exchange foreign for local currency, then this can be done within Itchan Kala. As you enter the western gate, look for a building on your right, signed as the ‘Exchange Office’. Here, you can receive SOM, the local Uzbek currency, using either a credit/debit card or by exchanging cash of a major currency (e.g. USD, EU, GBP).
All seems straightforward so far, doesn’t it? Well, not so.
When we tried to withdraw cash against our cards, the assistant could not connect the ATM card machine to a network. We were told that the signal is often intermittent. Option 1 was now scratched.
We joined the queue next to us to exchange our older USD notes; however, other tourists were turned away after presenting notes that were not of exceptional condition. They were being told their notes looked ‘dirty’. Hearing this, we just did an about-face and left the office.
Things to Do in Khiva … That’s a Wrap
Khiva is a place of contrast, by day a bustling hive of activity and by evening, an ancient city lapsing into a quiet it has known for centuries. The UNESCO World Heritage sight, Itchan Kala, is the major drawcard with its own atmosphere.
We found we could best connect with Khiva’s essence in the early morning and evenings when the crowds and local markets dispersed from the streets. Itchan Kala’s attractions don’t rival that of Samarkand or Bukhara but nonetheless make for an interesting visit.
The above article clearly demonstrates that Khiva is definitely worth visiting. We’d recommend two days for a visit to Khiva, which will give the majority of tourists ample time to soak in all that Khiva has to offer.
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