Orkney Magic: Beautiful Binscarth Woods

Whether it was magic at work, fate or just pure coincidence, Binscarth Woods pulled me in almost as soon as we arrived in Orkney.

Of all the things we’d previously planned to do in Orkney, we discovered this once we were already on the island.

The sun sparkled this way and that. The breeze shifted dappled shade, sending dancing sunbeams amongst the vibrant violet-blue bluebells.

It was at once clear why these treasured woodland flowers are often called fairy flowers. When the wind dropped briefly, you could almost hear the tiny tinkle of bells.

And who’s to say the flickers of light weren’t the fairy folk flitting from bell to bell?

In Orkney, where the landscape is famously open and windswept, finding Binscarth Woods felt like stumbling upon a secret garden. Here, in one of the few woodlands on the island, the rarity makes it all the more magical.

I’m excited to take you along on this unexpected highlight of our trip. We’ll wander through Binscarth’s rich history, get close to its vibrant life, and maybe even chase a few fairy tales.

So, lace up your walking shoes, and let’s dive into the story and magic of Binscarth Woods together. Who knows what we’ll discover?

Binscarth Wood Orkney Video

Step into a serene minute with our video of Binscarth Woods. Watch as the bluebells sway under the canopy of rare Orkney woodland, casting a calm spell over this hidden gem.

Don’t just take my word for it; see for yourself why this place feels like a fairytale.

Finding Binscarth Woods

Our first stop after landing at Stromness by ferry was to unload our bags at our accommodation in Kirkwall. We then planned to hop straight back into the car to begin our Orkney sightseeing.

We already had numerous points marked up to see and a nagging doubt that we’d be able to fit everything in over the next three days in Orkney.

Nevertheless, I still leafed through the Orkney brochures left by our hosts as I sat on the end of the bed having a quick, pick-me-up cuppa.

One particularly caught my eye. A cover page filled with bluebells.

What? Wasn’t Orkney a treeless island?

A bluebell wood had definitely not come up on my Things to do in spring in Orkney research.

Bemused, I found a small paragraph inside, with a map showing where I could find such a place in Orkney. It seemed Orkney was not treeless after all.

I had never seen a bluebell wood, and it still sat patiently on my bucket list. And, it hadn’t crossed my mind for one second that I might find one on a remote island in the far north of Scotland.

But find one I did.

Binscarth Woods has an enchanting carpet of blue to delight any flower lover.

Getting to Binscarth Woods

Binscarth Woods is about a 10-minute drive from Orkney’s capital, Kirkwall. Free parking is available at Finstown, on the road just past the entrance gate that crosses a field.

Once you walk through the first gate, just off the A965, walk across a field where Binscarth House can be seen on the hill.

A short distance into the wood, another gate to your left leads to a narrow path that follows the river (or burn as they call it in Scotland.) We came back along that path (that forms a circular route) once we reached the end of the woods.

If you would like a longer walk, the pathway leads out of the woods and further on to a point called Refuge Corner. The trail leads you past a burial mound on your left called Howe Harper, believed to be a Norse grave.

A little further, you reach Loch of Wasdale, known to attract waders and other waterbirds. Near the shore of the lake, you’ll find a small crannog, an artificial island that is thought to date back to the bronze age. Once at the Loch, retrace your steps back to the carpark at Finstown.

In fact, this trail is part of a larger, 58-mile pilgrimage route through Mainland Orkney, the St. Magnus Way, which was inspired by the life and death of Magnus, Orkney’s patron saint.

About Binscarth Woods

Binscarth Wood was originally planted around 1860, shortly after Binscarth House was built. However, in 1952, gale-force winds brought down many of the original trees. These were replanted, and today, the wood includes broad-leaved trees such as ash, beech, hawthorn and sycamore.

In fact, these trees at Binscarth are home to 15% of Orkney’s birds, and you may spot blackbirds, robins, wren, dunnock, goldcrest, chaffinch and rooks here.

For more on the wildlife and birds in the area, check out the Landscape Britain website which has a list of the 15 different types of mammals and 186 birds within 5km of Binscarth.

Although Orkney is almost treeless nowadays, recent evidence suggests that prehistoric Orkney did indeed have woodlands. … around 3500 BC.

But today, we can be thankful for the few woodlands that have thrived on Orkney, and Binscarth Woods is a welcome woodland charm.

Nestled in the valley, it is somewhat protected from the winds, and the springtime bluebells make it an extra special place to visit in Orkney.

Binscarth Wood Bluebells

The bluebells found in Binscarth Wood seem mainly of the non-native Spanish variety, but I’m not sure if some were hybrids, perhaps because some were drooping more like the native bluebell.

The native bluebell (or common bluebell) has flowers that grow on only one side, which causes its drooping pose. It is also scented and has narrow leaves. In comparison, the non-native Spanish variety has a more upright stance with flowers all around the stem and no scent.

The Spanish bluebell is hardier than the common bluebell and is, therefore, unfortunately, a threat. In fact, studies show that 1 in 6 woodlands contain the Spanish bluebell or hybrids.

Along with bluebells, pink purslane, celandine, and few-flowered garlic were blooming. The garlic smell was quite pungent, but the visual display of the bluebells detracted my mind from the smell … most of the time.

Even though their scent is questionable, the white translucent petals of the garlic weed are attractive and delicate—perfect for practicing my macro photography.

For more photography ideas, check out Lars’s post on road trip photography ideas and our travel photography equipment here.

Mindfulness at Binscarth Woods

According to National Geographic, the secret to mindful travel is a walk in the woods.

Connecting to your environment and nature is good for your soul, and Binscarth Woods, with its carpet of beautiful bluebells, is the perfect place to kick back and focus on the nature around you.

While you wander through the woods, take your time. Pay attention to your surroundings, and be in the moment.

I love macro photography because it really focuses my attention and relaxes me — bringing me into the present within nature.

Other Orkney Woodlands

Unfortunately, we ran out of time to visit Happy Valley (and on our last day, it bucketed down with rain), but this sounds like another gorgeous woodland to visit.

Happy Valley, in Stenness, Orkney was created by Edwin Harrold who lived there from 1948. He planted this small woodland and welcomed visitors to his garden during his lifetime.

After he died, the Friends of Happy Valley charity was established to maintain the wood for the enjoyment of future visitors.

You will find beautiful bluebells there too.

For more information on other small woodland walks in Orkney, download the Orkney Woodland Projects leaflet here. This leaflet caught my attention and led me to Binscarth Wood.

Binscarth Woods FAQS

Binscarth Woods… That’s a Wrap

We love finding places that aren’t on the well-trodden tourist paths, and Binscarth Woods is one such place in Orkney.

Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a birdwatcher, or a family seeking a delightful outing, this captivating woodland in Orkney, just a short drive from Kirkwall, is easily accessible to all.

Remember the words of National Geographic: The secret to mindful travel is a walk in the woods. Let Binscarth Woods be your sanctuary of tranquillity and beauty amidst the magic of Orkney.

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