Is Khiva Worth Visiting? A Traveller’s Perspective

Wondering if Khiva is worth visiting? We spent a couple of weeks exploring Uzbekistan’s main cities, and Khiva was one of the most interesting.

Nestled along the ancient Silk Roads, not far from the celebrated cities of Tashkent, Samarkand, and Bukhara, lies the enigmatic city of Khiva. It’s Central Asia’s largest preserved walled city, Itchan Kala, a testament to the region’s rich history.

Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1990, Itchan Kala’s massive earthen walls encircle a treasure trove of architectural wonders and cultural heritage, setting it distinctly apart from other historic sites in Uzbekistan.

So, let’s explore why we think Khiva is worth visiting and adding to your Uzbekistan Itinerary.

We’ll share what to see in Khiva, practical tips and personal insights, ensuring your time is well spent in Khiva.

Getting to Khiva: the Stress-Free Way

The two easiest options to get to Khiva are by train and plane. A third option is using road transport, but this is not recommended in this article due to the state of the roads.

By Train:

Travelling to Khiva is most conveniently done by train.

From Samarkand, we enjoyed the comfort of business class on Uzbekistan Railways. Clean carriages and ample legroom make for comfortable travel. Food and drink are available for purchase on board.

You can book tickets through the Uzbekistan Railways website; they become available 45 days before departure and tend to sell out quickly. We weren’t lucky on this one and had to reach out and purchase through an Uzbek travel company, Advantour.

You could take a chance and try to purchase a ticket at the train station, but it cutting it fine as tickets sell out fast.

Train Timetables:

• From Samarkand to Urgench: Depart at 01:07 a.m., arrive at 10:55 a.m.; or depart at 09:08 p.m., arrive at 07:10 a.m.
• From Tashkent to Urgench: Depart at 03:39 p.m., arrive at 06:13 a.m.; or depart at 09:00 p.m., arrive at 10:10 a.m.

By Plane:

Although Khiva does not have its own airport, Urgench International Airport is only 40 kilometres away and easily accessible by taxi. Direct flights from Tashkent take 1hr 30mins.

✈️ We use and recommend Skyscanner to find cheap flights

Itchan Kala: Entrance Ticket and Ticket Options

Visiting the old city of Itchan Kala in Khiva requires a ticket, which grants access to various historical attractions and museums. Tickets are available at the main entrance, the West Gate, and provide 24/7 access to the city:

• Economy Ticket (50,000 SOM, approx. USD$4.00): Allows city access without museum entry.
• Standard Ticket (100,000 SOM, approx. USD$8.00): Includes entry to all museums and mosques.
• Deluxe Ticket (150,000 SOM, approx. USD$12.00): Grants access to all museums, mosques, and three minarets.

Additional Information:

• All tickets are valid for 48 hours.
• The historical sites inside Itchan Kala are open from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., including minarets, mosques, and museums.
• If you have questions, you can inquire at the ticket office or seek assistance from the Tourist Police, who are there to help visitors.
• Currently, turnstiles are only installed at the western gate. Plans are in place to add turnstiles and ticketing offices at the other three gates (north, south, and east).

Alternative Access into Itchan Kala

We noticed locals frequently using a pedestrian walkway for entering and exiting Itchan Kala, located just 100 meters south of the western gate.

Curious, we consulted the Tourist Police about the absence of turnstiles at this entrance and learned that no plans are in place to install any.

The police explained that this pathway remains open and free to accommodate locals who work inside and need a convenient route home. While this entrance allows access to the city, it does not permit entry to any attractions without a ticket.

We chose to pay the entry fee at the western gate, knowing that doing so would support the local economy. 

Itchan Kala – First Impressions

Itchan Kala, the walled old city, stands as the historical heart of Khiva. It blends modern-day museums with historical attractions, with markets dominating nearly every street.

During the day, it’s hard to find a view without a bustling market.

However, the best way to experience Khiva is to arrive early in the morning before traders set up their stalls.

In these quiet, early hours, you can truly appreciate the essence of Khiva, almost hearing the city breathe. This also lets you avoid the larger tour groups that roam the streets later in the day.

If you’re not an early riser, consider visiting at sundown when most traders have left, leaving the streets quieter and more serene.

We initially struggled to connect with Khiva. Our friendly greetings to local merchants often went unreciprocated, contrasting sharply with our experiences in other Uzbek cities.

Upon visiting the local Tourist Information Centre, we learned that many merchants were burdened with stress due to unmanageable loan repayments.

The government had encouraged them to take small business loans and convert their homes into B&Bs, anticipating a tourism surge that never materialized.

This left many with debts they couldn’t manage, competing to sell the same traditional fur hats and colourful Uzbek dolls.

This challenging situation made it easy for us to empathize with the local vendors enduring such stress.

READ MORE: The Ultimate Uzbekistan Travel Tips and Guide

Top 11 Things to See in Khiva

Our journey in Khiva centred around exploring Itchan Kala, the old city and main attraction. I also embarked on a day trip to the Aral Sea ship cemetery.

Each ancient Uzbek city we visited along the Silk Road captivated us with its unique charm. Now, in Khiva, it was time to uncover its mysteries.

Below are our top picks for sites and activities for things to do in Khiva:

1. Juma Mosque

Also known as Djuma or Friday Mosque, this site features 215 carved wooden columns supporting a vast roof over a 46m by 55m prayer hall.

Remarkably, while the mosque dates back to the late 18th century, some columns are as old as the 10th century.

The mosque also houses small serene gardens and a 33m high minaret that visitors can climb.

2. Tash-Khovli Palace

Commissioned in 1831 by Allah Kuli Khan and completed in 1838, this palace is a testament to robust stone construction, housing over 150 rooms across nine courtyards.

The rich decor includes ceramic tiles, carved wood, and beautifully painted ceilings.

During our visit, we saw a yurt pitched on a circular platform in the internal eastern courtyards, which, in olden times, would have been the abode of a visiting clan leader (Turkmen, Uzbek or Kazakh) waiting for an audience or royal feast.

3. Kalta Minor Minaret

‘Minaret Kalta Minor’ translated means ‘short minaret’ and is one of the most iconic landmarks within Itchan Kala.

Kalta Minor minaret is 29m high; however, this fell far short of its original planned height of 70-80m.

Construction may have stopped after the death of Khiva’s ruler, Muhammad Amin Khan, who ruled between 1845 and 1855.

Another theory is the tall minaret would have allowed a view from the top into the ruler’s harem, so construction ceased.

Enjoy it day and night. It’s certainly one of Khiva’s beautiful historic structures. As you walk towards it through the western gate, it commands a presence.

4. Kuhna Ark

The Kuhna Ark was the Khan’s residence and fortress. It is inside the western gate and on your left as you enter. The residence houses the barracks, harem, mosque, and jail.

The highlight of our visit to Kuhna Ark was examining the throne room, which has exquisite patterns and colours befitting a mighty khan.

5. Sunset Views From the City Walls

The best views over Itchan Kala are from the old earthen walls near the Kunya Ark citadel, not far from the western gate.

To reach this location on the walls, you’ll need to walk to the northern gate and seek a series of steps leading up to the top.

Once on top, walk until you reach a dead-end, which brings you to the Kunya Ark Citadel.

Here you have spectacular views. You are able to view these structures in close proximity to the other:

• Muhammad Rakhimkhan Madrassah
• Juma minaret
• Islam Hoja minaret.

At our visit, walking the walls was free, although we were told that plans were in motion to install turnstiles for paid access.

Evening walks of the old city walls are among the best things to do in Khiva. The last of the orange sunset rays illuminate the minarets, mosques and madrasahs.

It’s a sight you’d find hard not to like.

6. Rooftop Views at the Caravan Khiva Restaurant and Dinner

Caravan Khiva is a three-storey restaurant in Itchan Kala that offers fabulous views of the cityscape from its open-air top floor.

It is located close to the southern gate and has a super-friendly owner. We can personally vouch for the fantastic mixed meat skewers here.

Bring your camera and a jacket, as it can get pretty cold once the wind blows, especially during our visit in October.

7. Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum

This structure was completed in 1701 and is the only blue-domed building in Khiva. The mausoleum is a dedication to the 14th-century warrior and poet Makhmud Pahlavan, famous for his battlefield exploits.

Makhmud’s Persian poetry is scribed on the glazed tiles throughout the Pahlavan Mahmud complex.

The ruling Khans’ practice of having their own funerary chambers forming annexes to the blue-domed building became a precedent from the mid-19th century.

8. Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa

Construction on the Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrasa was started in 1871 and completed in 1876. It is one of the largest madrasas in Central Asia and is located opposite Kuhna Ark.

Each corner of the internal yard corners is dominated by a green-domed tower.

This madrasa has a museum dedicated to the Khans of Khiva and Mohammed Rakhim Khan.

9. Old Graveyards

Some interesting old graveyards can be found in a few locations inside Itchan Kala’s walls (see map):

1.  A series of renovated graves are in the southwestern corner of Itchan Kala, close to the earthen wall.
2. Some renovated graves lie clustered at the back of the Pakhlavan Mahmud Complex.

If you look carefully, you may see old graves marked with flagged sticks, which symbolise good luck.

10. Museum of Madrassa’s History

There are quite a few museums to visit within Itchan Kala. Some have a limited number of exhibits, but one of the more informative museums is the Museum of Madrassa’s History.

This is located in the Sherghazikhan madrasa and opposite the Mausoleum of Pahlavon Mahmud.

Here you can see old photos, artefacts and traditional dress wear with some good explanations of life in Uzbekistan. The museum is well presented.

11. Day Trip from Khiva to the Aral Sea Ship Cemetery

An option from Khiva is to undertake a trip to the Aral Sea Ship Cemetery. It was something that intrigued me, so I joined a 1-day tour.

It was fantastic as we had a few stops along the way, visiting diverse attractions. Our guide was really knowledgeable, which made for a perfect day

⛴️ READ MORE: Day Trip to Aral Sea Ship Graveyard from Khiva

The one-day tour shown below visits the attractions I cover in my post. It’s a fabulous adventure.

Where to Eat In Khiva

After exploring the sights and sounds of Khiva, you’ll likely have worked up an appetite. Here’s where you can savour some of the best local cuisines both inside and outside the walls of Itchan Kala.

Inside Itchan Kala

We often dined at Caravan Khiva Restaurant, conveniently located near the Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum.

This establishment is open for lunch and dinner and offers a wide variety of delicious dishes on its menu.

Outside Itchan Kala

Just outside the western gate, you’ll find an authentic restaurant, Rustamboy – Choyzonasi.

We discovered this spot following a local’s recommendation. It’s a favourite among locals and offers meals at local prices.

Where to Stay in Khiva: Within Itchan Kala’s Walls

We booked into the Family Guest House – Khiva Azim Ota, which offered a traditional Uzbek breakfast. The establishment was ideally located within the old city walls and had reliable, fast Wi-Fi.

You can search for more deals on Khiva Accommodation below.

🏠 More Khiva Accommodation Deals

Khiva Tourist Tips

Before you embark on your adventures in Khiva, here are some essential tips to help you navigate tourist essentials like credit card use and currency exchange with ease.

Credit Card Use

Many of the ATMs within Itchan Kala accept only MasterCard, which is not much help if, like us, you only have Visa cards.

After asking around, we were directed to an ATM machine accepting Visa cards at the Hotel Asia Khiva, just outside the southern gate.

However, when we checked, this machine was out of service.

Finally, we received the right advice. A 15-minute walk northwest of the northern gate takes you to the NBU–Milliy Bank, the National Bank Of Uzbekistan.

The bank is opposite the Hotel Bek Khiva. Here, we could use our Visa card to withdraw cash and exchange foreign currency for local SOM (see map).

Exchanging Foreign Currency and Cash Withdrawal Inside Itchan Kala

If you need to exchange foreign currency for local currency, this can be done within Itchan Kala.

As you enter the western gate, look for a building on your right, signed as the ‘Exchange Office’.

Here, you can receive SOM, the local Uzbek currency, using either a credit/debit card or by exchanging cash in a major currency (e.g., USD, EUR, GBP).

All seems straightforward so far, doesn’t it? Well, not quite.

When we tried to withdraw cash against our cards, the assistant could not connect the ATM card machine to a network. We were told that the signal is often intermittent. Option 1 was now scratched.

We joined the queue to exchange our older USD notes; however, other tourists were turned away after presenting notes that were not of exceptional condition.

They were being told their notes looked ‘dirty’. Hearing this, we just did an about-face and left the office.

FAQ’s – Khiva Uzbekistan

Is Khiva Worth Visiting?

Khiva’s old city, the UNESCO-listed Itchan Kala, is definitely worth visiting. With its massive earthen walls that encircle its many architectural wonders, it is an amazing sight.

Why is Khiva Important?

Khiva is important because it is a key city along the ancient Silk Road. Its well-preserved Itchan Kala (inner walled city) contains remarkable examples of Islamic architecture, such as majestic mosques, madrasahs, and minarets.

Is It Easy To Get To Khiva?

Yes, it’s easy to reach Khiva. You can take a train from the nearest major city, Bukhara, or a plane from Tashkent.

Things to Do in Khiva … That’s a Wrap

Khiva presents a stark contrast between its bustling daytime activity and its serene evenings. Itchan Kala, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, stands as the main attraction with a distinct atmosphere.

We found the best times to experience Khiva’s true spirit are early morning and evening when the streets are less crowded and the markets wind down.

Although Itchan Kala’s attractions may not compete with those of Samarkand or Bukhara, they still offer an intriguing visit.

The insights from this article clearly show that Khiva is well worth the visit. We recommend spending at least two days here to fully absorb everything Khiva has to offer.

I hope you found this article informative. What is it that attracts you to Khiva? I’d love to hear about it.

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