Campervanning in Albania: Ultimate Guide 2024

Thinking of campervanning in Albania?

Are you dreaming of an off-the-beaten-path adventure that combines natural beauty, cultural richness, and the freedom of the open road? If so, you’ve landed on the right page.

Albania is quickly rising as one of Europe’s top destinations for 2024, thanks to its stunning landscapes, affordability, and new direct flights from major European cities like London, Vienna, and Istanbul. Now is the perfect time to explore this emerging gem before the crowds arrive.​

One of the biggest challenges when planning an Albania road trip itinerary is finding comprehensive planning information that takes the guesswork out of travel. That’s where we come in.

Lars and I motorhomed through Europe full-time for a year and included Albania in that itinerary.

In this guide, we’ll share essential tips and insider insights from our motorhome journey through Albania to ensure your campervan adventure is smooth and stress-free. From navigating vehicle hire to understanding local driving rules, we’ve got you covered.

Whether you’re a seasoned campervanner, motorhomer, or first-timer, we aim to make your Albanian trip smooth and stress-free.

Right, let’s get ready to road trip albania!

Why Visit Albania?

This country is a gem that’s still somewhat under the radar. National Geographic and other top travel publications have listed Albania among the top 30 places to visit in 2024, so it might not stay under the radar for much longer.

An Albanian road trip offers a blend of rugged mountains, idyllic beaches, and a welcoming culture. The best part? Albania is now more accessible than ever, with new visa-free entry for citizens from 118 countries and affordable travel options, making it one of Europe’s fastest-growing destinations.

Whether you’re drawn by the wild beauty of the Albanian Alps or the cultural richness of Tirana, there’s never been a better time to visit

A Warm Welcome on Our Albania Roadtrip

Albania, once isolated from the world, welcomes you as a long-awaited friend.

We tried to be inconspicuous, but our seven-metre white campervan had other plans—it was like hiding an elephant in a room full of mice. Yet, locals—whether on horse-drawn carts or carrying bundles of sticks—waved warmly as we passed.

That immediate sense of ease and acceptance was our first pleasant surprise in Albania.

Initially, the thought of driving through Albania made us a bit anxious. We even needed special insurance permission to bring our motorhome into the country.

Our friends questioned our decision, concerned for our safety. But as we found out, their worries were unfounded.

💡Lifejourney4two Tip: If you’re feeling anxious about driving in Albania, don’t be. The locals are incredibly welcoming, and the experience is worth it.

Ready to explore? Let’s dive into the best routes and tips for your Albanian journey.

Our Route: An Interactive Map

How to Use This Albanian Road Trip Map

To use this map, expand it using the square symbol on the top right-hand side. You’ll find the key on the left-hand side. 

By clicking each location, you will find extra information. 

For example, each Campervan overnight stop has a web link to Camper Contact to see the facilities available, price, opening times, and useful user reviews on each campsite.

• The Motorhome overnight stops are marked with an orange P circle, 
• The places we visited are marked with blue icons and
• Places you may like to stop on your road trip are purple. 

Our Albanian Itinerary and Camp Spots: A Summary

We’ve compiled a summary of our itinerary and camping spots to give you a tried-and-tested roadmap for campervanning in Albania or your motorhome journey. We have three different camping spots, but there are plenty of other options to extend your itinerary.

Resources for Campers

• Camper Contact lists 112 current camper sites throughout Albania.

Campervanning in Albania Route Overview

• Total Distance: 508 km
• Total Driving Time: Approx 10 hours

Campervanning Albania: Day-by-Day Breakdown

Day 1: Entering Albania

• Route: Montenegro Border to Tirana
• Distance: 120 km
• Time: 2.5 hours
• Border Crossing: Muriqan (Shkodër, Albania) – Sukobin (Ulcinj, Macedonia)
• Highlights: Shkoder View and Rozafa Castle
• Overnight: Mak Albania Carpark in Tirana
• Optional: Stay a night in Shkoder and visit Rozafa Castle

Day 2: Tirana to Berat

• Route: Tirana to Berat
• Distance: 100 km
• Time: 2 hours
• Highlights: Vlore esplanade and beach,
• Overnight: Berat Caravan Camping (4.5/5 star reviews)
• Optional: Stay a night in Durres, or you might be interested in this Durres & Kruja History and Local Food Day Trip Tour from Tirana

Day 3: Berat to Kranea

• Route: Berat to Kranea Camping
• Distance: 180 km
• Time: 3.5 hours
• Highlights: Fier Ship house, Llogara National Park, Llogara Panoramic view
• Overnight: Camping Kranea (4/5 star reviews)

Day 4: Kranea to Greece Border

• Route: Kranea to Kakavia, Greece Border
• Distance: 100 km
• Time: 2.5 hours
• Highlights: Optional stop at Blue Eye Nature Reserve, Castle of Porto Palermo and Borsh Beach,
• Optional: Stop at Blue Eye Nature Reserve en route from Himare to Kakavia. Or take a detour to visit Gyrokaster or Saranda.

👉While exploring Albania by campervan, consider extending your adventure across Europe. Our detailed guide on European road trip routes offers perfect ideas for continuing your travels

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Great Spots to Visit on Your Motorhome Trip in Albania

Whether you’re starting in Tirana or crossing the border from Montenegro, your adventure awaits. We’ve got you covered with some great spots and a few hidden gems to consider adding to your itinerary.

1. Shkoder: A Town of History and Diversity

As we left the Albanian border at Muriqan, the town of Shkoder caught our eye. Dominating the skyline was Rozafa Castle, perched on a rocky hill.

Why You Should Visit: Shkoder is a melting pot of religious diversity, with mosques and churches aplenty. If you have an extra day, explore Rozafa Castle up close rather than admiring it from afar like we did.

The Legend of Rozafa Castle

The castle comes with a poignant legend. It’s a tale of sacrifice and the strength of women.

Three brothers tasked with building the castle found their work undone each day. A fortune-teller revealed that success would come only if one of their wives were entombed in the castle walls. The youngest brother’s wife became that sacrifice, asking only that holes be left in the wall to nurse and comfort her baby.

The castle was finally built, standing as a testament to her sacrifice.

2. Explore Tirana: The Heartbeat of Albania

Tirana, the capital, was our first pit stop. We jumped on a free two-hour walking tour, a staple for us in any capital city. It’s a great way to soak up local insights and stories.

If you’re a foodie, consider a city and food tour. You’ll get to munch on traditional Albanian bites as you explore the capital.

Et’hem Bey Mosque: A Testament to Resilience

While exploring Tirana, we were drawn to the Et’hem Bey Mosque, a stunning piece of Ottoman architecture nestled in the city’s heart. What struck us most wasn’t just its beauty but the incredible story of its survival.

During Albania’s communist era, religious buildings were systematically destroyed as the regime sought to eliminate religious practices. Entire communities lost their places of worship, and many historical mosques were reduced to rubble. It was heartbreaking to learn just how much was lost.

Yet, the Et’hem Bey Mosque defied the odds. Closed but not destroyed, it stood quietly through those dark years, a symbol of resilience in the face of oppression. In 1991, the mosque reopened, and thousands gathered to celebrate—an act of peaceful defiance that marked a turning point in Albania’s journey back to religious freedom.

Standing in its courtyard, we couldn’t help but feel a profound respect for those who preserved this sacred space. The mosque isn’t just a beautiful building; it’s a testament to the enduring spirit of the Albanian people.

Skanderbeg Square

Skanderbeg Square is the city’s heart and is named after a 15th-century hero. It got a facelift in 2017, costing €13,000,000, with stone tiles from all over Albania.

The slope design is for water drainage because the fountains wet the stones periodically for their colours to be enjoyed.

National History Museum

Update Note: The museum will be closed for four years from mid-2024 – 15/3/28! How it can take four years to renovate is beyond belief, but there you go!

The National History Museum, Albania’s largest museum, is next to Skanderbeg Square.

The museum documents Albania’s rise and fall through the ages and includes pavilions dedicated to the communist terror and another to Mother Teresa, who was born in Albania.

If you are particularly interested in learning about the Communist era, consider this 5-star-rated Communist History Tour of the city. During the tour, you will learn about the rule of the Communist Party of Albania, which ruled from 1945 to 1991.

Consider a Visit to the House of Leaves

With the National Museum in Tirana closed for renovations until 2028, the House of Leaves museum is a compelling alternative.

This museum, housed in the former headquarters of Albania’s secret police, provides a chilling look into the surveillance tactics used during the communist era. Through exhibits like hidden cameras and wiretapping devices, visitors can explore the darker side of Albania’s history.

The House of Leaves is well worth a visit if you’re interested in delving into the country’s past.

The Reimagined Pyramid of Tirana

The Pyramid of Tirana was originally designed by Enver Hoxha’s daughter and son-in-law as a tribute to him. It opened in 1988 but lost its purpose when communism fell.

Over the years, it’s been a magnet for thrill-seekers. Climbing to the top offers a unique view of Tirana, and the descent tests your agility.

One of us made it to the top … I wonder if you can guess who? See our short video here.

The pyramid sat abandoned for years, its graffiti-covered walls a silent testament to a bygone era. But fast-forward to the present day, and it’s a different story.

The pyramid has been transformed into a vibrant hub filled with classrooms, cafes, and creative spaces.

Peace Bell

The ‘Peace Bell’  was made by the children of Shkodra from thousands of spent gun shells collected during the 1997 civil unrest.

Bunkart2

What was originally a top-secret nuclear bunker is now Bunkart2, a museum in the centre of Tirana. 

The bunker was originally built in the early 1980s to shelter élite police and interior ministry staff in the event of a nuclear attack. In fact, hundreds were built around the country in the case of an attack.

The Bunkart2 museum highlights the political persecution of about 100,000 Albanians from the years 1945 until 1991.

Postblloku

Just near Blloku, the once off-limits residential area for the élite communist leaders is the PostBlloku Memorial.

The installation consists of three separate parts: 

• A piece of the Berlin Wall,
• A mushroom-shaped bunker and
• Concrete pillars were taken from Spac MIne, a forced labour camp for communist dissidents.

Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral Tirana

The Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral in Tirana symbolizes Albania’s rich Orthodox heritage. This grand cathedral, with its towering dome and intricate frescoes, offers a serene contrast to the bustling city outside.

It’s one of the largest Orthodox cathedrals in the Balkans, and the atmosphere inside is a serene contrast to the bustling city outside.

A notable feature outside the cathedral is the statue of Mother Teresa, a figure who resonates deeply with Albanians.

Although she was Catholic, her legacy of compassion and her Albanian roots make her an important symbol of unity and faith across all denominations in Albania. Her statue here serves as a reminder of her work and the enduring spirit of love and service that she embodied.

Adding the visit to this cathedral to your itinerary not only gives you a chance to admire its architectural beauty but also to reflect on the universal messages of peace and humanity that Mother Teresa championed.

Escape the City

If you are interested in getting out of the city for a short hike and seeing the beautiful Bovilla Lake, you might like this tour:

🚐 Where We Stayed: Mak Albania Carpark

3. Durres

Durres is Albania’s second most populated city, after Tirana.

It’s famous for its ancient amphitheatre, which is one of the largest in the Balkans. Built in the 2nd century, it could accommodate up to 20,000 spectators.

Durres is also known for its beautiful beaches, which attract both locals and tourists during the summer months. The city’s coastline stretches for about 10 kilometres with a variety of sandy beaches lined with beach clubs, restaurants, and bars.

Being the largest seaport in Albania, Durres serves as a major hub for imports and exports, so don’t expect it to be quite as picturesque as many places in Albania.

If you are interested in the history of the surrounding areas of Durres and Kruja, as well as the local food, then the Durres & Kruja History and Local Food Day Trip Tour, with pick-up and drop-off from Tirana, may interest you.

It includes a visit to the Durrës Roman Amphitheatre, the Venetian Tower, and the colourful bazaar in Kruja.

4. Vlore & Lungomare

As we motorhomed through Albania from Tirana to Berat, we chose to drive the coast road. This took us past the Old Town of Vlore and the esplanade-like Lungomare.

Extending for about 3 km, this promenade is a hub of local culture and activities. It’s pedestrian-friendly, making it perfect for strolls and cycling, and you’ll find plenty of cafes and restaurants where you can sip coffee or dine with a sea view.

Parking is available, but it can get crowded during peak season.

There are so many beaches along this strip you can take your pick on which to stop at. The beaches were empty as we travelled in November, but it’s a different story come summer.

5. Berat: The City of Windows

Leaving behind Tirana’s bustling streets and historical landmarks, we hit the road again.

Our Albanian road trip adventure led us into the heart of rural Albania, towards the picturesque city of Berat.

We opted for a campsite just on the outskirts of Berat. In hindsight, we wish we’d ventured into the city itself. Why? Because Berat is not just any city—it’s often dubbed the ‘City of Windows’. Imagine white Ottoman houses cascading down a hill, all overlooking the serene Osum River. It’s a sight we regret missing.

If you’re curious about what a visit to Berat might entail, we found this insightful YouTube Video by Gabriel Traveler. It’s a fantastic guide that also highlights how cost-effective travelling in Albania can be.

🚐 Where We Stayed: Berat Caravan Camping

6. Rural Albania: Llogara National Park, Porto Palermo Castle, and Gjipe Canyon

As you steer your motorhome through the winding roads of Llogara National Park, you’ll be greeted by awe-inspiring mountainous landscapes. The park is a haven for nature lovers and offers some of the most scenic drives in Albania.

One of our favourite stops was Panorama Llogara, a viewpoint that offers jaw-dropping vistas of the surrounding area. It’s the perfect spot to stretch your legs, snap some photos, and soak in the natural beauty.

But not just the natural and historical landmarks will catch your eye. You’ll likely spot concrete bunkers dotting the landscape, remnants of Enver Hoxha’s suspicious regime. Numbering in the thousands, these bunkers are a haunting yet fascinating sight.

And bunkers aren’t the only things that’ll keep popping up. Expect to share the road with goats, cows, and sheep; if you’re lucky, a gobble of turkeys might appear.

It’s these unexpected encounters that add a dash of humour and local flavour to your road trip.

But the surprises don’t end there. On the stretch between Berat and Fier, you’ll come across a seven-story building shaped like a ship, miles away from any body of water. Known as Fier’s Ship House, it’s one of those quirky roadside attractions that make a road trip memorable.

So, whether it’s the stunning natural beauty of places like Gjipe Canyon or the oddities like Fier’s Ship House, rural Albania offers a road trip experience that’s as diverse as it is unforgettable.

Remember, the journey is as important as the destination, and both are equally spectacular in Albania.

7. Himare on the Albanian Riviera

Albania is a treasure trove of surprises, and its beaches are no exception. Imagine long stretches of azure water and miles of pebbled and shingle beaches.

We visited in November, not exactly beach weather for most, but that didn’t deter Lars. He took the plunge, swimming in the beautiful deserted bays. It’s these off-season moments that make travel so special.

I can’t help but wonder how long it will be before Albania’s beaches become as crowded as those in neighbouring Greece.

Livadhi Beach, in Himare, stretches for 1.2 kilometres and is framed by olive groves. It’s the kind of place where you can lose track of time, and we almost did.

On our last night in Albania, we found ourselves on Livadhi Beach, watching the sun dip below the horizon.

Its last rays shone on a beachside bunker, a relic from Albania’s past. It was a poignant moment, symbolising a country that’s breaking free from its history and embracing a brighter future.

🚐 Where We Stayed: Camping Kranea, Himare

8. Porto Palermo Castle

After leaving Camping Kranea, we headed south along the coast and came across Porto Palermo Castle, also known as the Ali Pasha Tepelena Fortress.

Perched on a peninsula, this castle offers a historical pitstop and a chance to capture some amazing photos right from the road.

9. Borsh Beach

After leaving Camping Kranea, we headed south along the coast

Borsh Beach is the longest in the south of Albania and stretches for 7km. It is a less busy summer beach with public and private sections. The beach is made of pebbles, and there can be lots of rocks and sea urchins in the shallow shore areas, so it might be worth investing in a pair of water shoes.

In the summer months, in the private areas of Borsh Beach, you can hire umbrellas and sunbeds.

10. The Blue Eye

The Blue Eye (known locally as Syri I Kalter) was a hidden oasis that, unfortunately, we drove right past.

It is a deep water hole fed by a natural spring surrounded by tropical plants. If you are visiting Albania in the summer, peak season, then be aware that this is a popular tourist destination.

11. Gjirokastra: The City of Stone

Gjirokastra, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a city that’s as rich in history as it is in stone architecture. Nestled in southern Albania near the Greek border, this city is home to Albania’s largest castle—Gjirokastra Castle.

• Don’t miss the panoramic views from the castle. Perfect for capturing some Instagram-worthy shots.
• The old open-air Bazaar is a must-visit for unique souvenirs and local crafts.
• If you’re into architecture, the 17th-century turreted stone houses are a sight to behold.

The Gjirokastra Castle, also known as the Fortress of Argyrokastro, has been a cornerstone of the city since the 12th century. It offers sweeping views of the city and its surrounding landscape.

12. Saranda: The Pulse of Albania’s Riviera

Lonely Planet has dubbed Saranda the unofficial capital of the Albanian Riviera. It is your go-to spot for a livelier beach scene and buzzing nightlife.

Nearby Attractions:

• Ksamil Beach: Known for its crystal-clear waters and sandy shores.
• Mirror Beach: A quieter option but equally stunning.
• Butrint National Park: Just a short drive away, this park offers a mix of history and natural beauty.

Saranda is a local favourite and a hit among tourists, especially during summer.

So, if you’re planning a road trip through Albania and crave a bit of hustle and bustle amid natural beauty, make sure to add Saranda to your itinerary.

In the next section, we’ll discuss the practicalities of campervanning in Albania, from road conditions to wild camping rules.

What is it Like Driving in Albania?

Ah, the open road in Albania. It’s not just a drive; it’s an adventure. Crossing the border at Muriqan–Sukobin was a breeze for us, but we’ve heard summer queues can test your patience. Once you’re in, brace yourself for a ride that’s as unpredictable as a British summer.

The roads are a patchwork quilt of smooth asphalt and jarring potholes. You’ll share them with everyone, from pedestrians to peddlers selling everything from clothes to caged chickens. And let’s not forget the livestock—goats, sheep, cows, and even turkeys seem to think they have the right of way.

Traffic rules?

It’s more like traffic suggestions.

Lights and lanes are often ignored in a chaotic dance that somehow avoids disaster. It’s especially intense as you near Tirana, the capital. Cars and buses jostle for space like it’s a Black Friday sale. But don’t worry, it gets calmer as you move further into the country.

Vehicle Rental Options for Your Albania Road Trip

Below, we’ve laid out the best options for hiring a car, campervan, or motorhome for your Albanian adventure. Whether you’re a couple looking for a romantic getaway or a family seeking a nature-filled holiday, we’ve got you covered.

Hiring a Car in Albania

If you’re flying into Albania, you’ll most likely land at Tirana International Airport, also known as Nënë Tereza (named after Mother Teresa, who was born in Albania). The easiest way to get your road trip started is to arrange a rental car for pick-up right at the airport.

💡Lifejourney4two Tip: Booking your car rental in advance can save you time and stress & check if your rental includes insurance or if you need to purchase additional coverage.

Campervan or Motorhome Hire in Albania

If you’re new to the campervan or motorhome scene, our comprehensive guide will help you decide on the type of camper that suits your needs and budget.

We’ve had experiences with both McRent and DRM, and we found that going through Motorhome Republic got us a much better deal.

💡Lifejourney4two Tips: Consider the size of the motorhome if you’re planning to explore narrow or winding roads.

⭐️ Get a quote from Motorhome Republic here ⭐️

Also, don’t forget to check what campervan accessories and gadgets come with the motorhome and whether they’re included in the price.

Getting to Albania

We crossed into Albania in our motorhome from Montenegro in the north. But if you’re flying in, starting your journey in Tirana, the capital, is your best bet.

Crossing by Land

We entered Albania at the Muriqan-Sukobin border crossing, but depending on your starting point, there are several other options. Each crossing has its own set of rules and timings, so it’s worth doing some research beforehand.

Flying into Albania

If you’re flying, Tirana International Airport, also known as Nënë Tereza, is the main gateway. It’s well-connected to various European cities, so finding a flight that fits your schedule shouldn’t be a problem.

It’s getting easier to fly to Tirana, especially for those flying from the UK. *Ryanair has recently started flying to the capital, Tirana, from Edinburgh, Manchester and Stansted, and Wizz Air will fly from Birmingham, Edinburgh and Liverpool starting on 19 December 2023. [*National Geographic]

By Sea

For those coming from Italy, there’s also the option to take a ferry to the port city of Durrës.

• Book your ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak season.

No matter how you choose to get to Albania, each option offers its own unique experience and adventure.

Handy Tips for Your Albanian Motorhome & Campervanning Road Trip

• Currency: Albanian Lek
• Language: Albanian — Many people we met in the cities spoke English, but less so in rural areas
• Shopping: Many shops close on weekends
• Quirks: Albanians tend to nod when they mean ‘no’ and shake their head when they mean ‘yes’

Handy Words for Travelling in Albania

• Yes → Po
• No → Jo (ya)
• Please → Të lutem (tel-oo-tum)
• Thank you → Faleminderit (fal-loo-min-airs)
• Goodbye → Lamtumirë (Lam -too-meer)
• Left → majtas (my-a-tas)
• Right → Djathtas (dee-ath-ass)

A VERY SHORT GUIDE TO ALBANIA’S MORE RECENT HISTORY
Albania has a complex past, mainly shaped by its communist-era post-WWII. Ruled by extremist communist Enver Hoxha, the country was isolated from the rest of the world. Since the end of communism in the ’90s, Albania has been on a path of growth and is a NATO member since 2009.

Albania: Life Under Communist Rule

It’s hard to imagine living in such isolation. The state controlled all aspects of life.

A local named Gazi told us that travelling abroad, owning a car, and practising religion were all forbidden. Propaganda was a daily routine, painting a rosy picture of life in Albania.

Enver Hoxha died in 1985, and communist rule was coming to an end by 1990. Gazi told us that in 1991, he was given his first pair of jeans and had his first taste of an unrecognisable fruit—a banana.

Campervanning & Motorhoming in Albania — That’s a Wrap

Our motorhoming journey took us from Albania to Greece. We drove along bumpy roads, admired the Albania countryside, and encountered locals and animals along the way.

Albania offers a unique road trip experience, blending natural beauty with cultural quirks. Whether you’re navigating through its cities or rural landscapes, there’s something for every adventurous spirit.

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Read more:

• Croatia: Motorhoming in Croatia: The Perfect Road Trip
• France: Motorhoming in France: Your Ultimate Guide
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• Italy: Campervanning in Italy: Your Ultimate Guide